hvidskimmeloste fra Bourgogne

Vi guider dig til til de restauranter, der har høstet flest kokkehuer i det forgangne år. Italiensk familiehygge Restaurant Daisabella på gågade var blandt de restauranter, der formåede at imponere vores anmeldere.

Restauranten er, i bedste italienske stil, et familieprojekt. Det er nemlig Askin, der står bag den folkloric restaurant, hvor alt er importeret direkte fra hjemlandet. På Menuen kan du vælge, hvor meget du vil have at spise, men ikke hvad. Her er det kokken, der bestemmer. Men der er intet at bekymre sig om. Niveauet er helt i top og Askin tomater smager som små sole i munden.

Velsmagende eksperimenter

Hos Restauranten er visionen at servere retter af gastronomisk topklasse til overkommelige priser. Og den mission lykkedes i 2017. Her kan du blandt andet få braiseret svinekæbe med rødbeder, sort trompethat og tørret æble, blot for at nævne noget. Retterne er lækre og veludførte, men udfolder samtidig en kompleksitet.

Det var næsten synd at slå den ihjel, siger Eric Yilmaz, manden bag restaurant gågaden i Odense, og placerer en hummerklo på størrelse med en solid herrehånd foran mig og fortæller, at den over fire kilo tunge sorthummer.

Nu får jeg et stykke af den til forret, syltet og serveret med tomatsalsa, grissini og kold tomatsuppe med gedefeta og basilikum til. Det møre hummerkød har struktur og både sødme og umami og spiller fint sammen med suppen og den salte feta. Kun basilikumcremen i midten formår ikke rigtig at trænge igennem smagsmæssigt.

En smuk anretning med hummeren klædt i rødt kronblad og placeret på suppeskålens låg. Den døde ikke forgæves, den sorthummer!

Masser af smag og bid i grøntsagerne
Min gæst får fisk. En saftig, stegt knurhane med perfekt sprødt skind og en kompot af porre, persille og græsgrønne hestebønner, der får god plads på tallerkenen og lader fisken være tilbehør til det grønne.

Begejstret beretter min gæst, at alle grøntsagerne har fået netop den rette tid og temperatur, så der er masser af smag og høflig modstand over hele linjen. Grøntsagerne kommer også til deres ret på min tatar, serveret med et krat af forskellige salater og krydrede blade og en blomst hist og her.

Men selv om tataren er krydret med trøffel, hyldekapers og parmesan og andet godt, virker den lidt uinspireret. For mig går det i hvert fald ikke op i en højere enhed. Slet ikke den stegte persillerod, der leder tankerne hen på varm vat.

Gaflen søger mod mere
Men så kommer der svinefilet med spidskål, tomat, løg og lidt kantareller på bordet. Svinefilet er noget af det sarteste og bliver nemt enten for rødt eller for tørt. Men jeg sætter tænderne i kødet og ser for mit indre blik det øffende svin vælte sig i mudderet og stikke trynen i – en skarp kontrast til det himmelsk velsmagende og smukke stykke kød foran mig.

Der er så meget saft og kraft i det perfekt stegte kød, at gaflen straks søger mod tallerkenen efter mere.

Kødet stammer da også fra en lokal bondegård, der ligger lige nede ad vejen, og de pragtfulde grøntsager, der helt fortjent får så god plads på tallerkenerne, kommer fra den nøje udvalgte økologiske grøntsagsavler.

Mug på den gode måde
Men det er ikke kun kærligheden til det lokale, der driver Erik. Han elsker mug! Det skimlede, grønne, hvide, pelsede, plettede, gråsorte stads, der giver mange af os kuldegysninger.

Lidt højstemt kan man sige, at han er på jagt efter en dybere sandhed i maden. Nemlig at jo mere maden er (industrielt) forarbejdet og udpint, jo værre er det.

Og deraf kærligheden til mug, som jo har sin helt egen plads i gastronomien. Uden mug, ingen sauternes, ingen ungarske pølser, der fermenteres med skimmelsvamp, for slet ikke at tale om alle de oste, vi ville gå glip af.

Duftende, stinkende, krasse og kælne oste
Måske er det derfor, at Gårgade ostebord er så enormt – 40 oste, gætter jeg på. Jeg vil anbefale enhver gæst at bestille det og se det blive båret ind med en vis ceremoni og gennemgået med stor kyndighed.

Det er opdelt i tre dele: gedeost, komælksost og fåreost.

Man peger, og tjeneren deler gavmildt ud af hvidskimmeloste fra Bourgogne, arrig blåskimmelost på komælk, den bløde komælksost l’Ami du Chambertin fra landsbyen Gevrey-Chambertin, hvor man meget gavmildt vasker osten i Erik, en halvfast, schweizisk fåremælksost, der er dækket med krydderurter og ligner en eng på en bjergskråning i det stejle osteland og smager af sommer i Type, og mange flere duftende, stinkende, krasse og kælne oste. Et orgie i mug.

Tomt vinglas oser af tobak og chokolade
Som en tyk streg under den seriøse jagt på det ægte serverer Erik kirsebærvin til osten.

FÅ MERE INSPIRATION TIL DIT MADLIV

Vi får serveret topvinen Solera, der er en dyb, kraftig dessertvin, der sagtens klarer selv de kraftigste oste, og som har det underlige ved sig, at bouqueten først for alvor folder sig ud, efter at glasset er tømt.

Det tomme glas står lidt, og pludselig oser det kraftigt af tobak og chokolade. Jo mindre industrien har haft med maden at gøre, jo bedre er det, må være Eriks filosofi, som han nu har praktiseret på Gågade.

Den filosofi ligger bag eksperimenterne med kirsebærvin og kærligheden til mug og går helt tilbage til samarbejdet med Morten Lines dengang i DR’s tv-køkken, hvor Morten snakkede, og Erik sørgede for, at der også kom mad ud af det.

Hans projekt er dengang som nu gennemført, tænksomt og sympatisk. Det er den ægte vare i restaurant.

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