hvidskimmeloste fra Bourgogne

Vi guider dig til til de restauranter, der har høstet flest kokkehuer i det forgangne år. Italiensk familiehygge Restaurant Daisabella på gågade var blandt de restauranter, der formåede at imponere vores anmeldere.

Restauranten er, i bedste italienske stil, et familieprojekt. Det er nemlig Askin, der står bag den folkloric restaurant, hvor alt er importeret direkte fra hjemlandet. På Menuen kan du vælge, hvor meget du vil have at spise, men ikke hvad. Her er det kokken, der bestemmer. Men der er intet at bekymre sig om. Niveauet er helt i top og Askin tomater smager som små sole i munden.

Velsmagende eksperimenter

Hos Restauranten er visionen at servere retter af gastronomisk topklasse til overkommelige priser. Og den mission lykkedes i 2017. Her kan du blandt andet få braiseret svinekæbe med rødbeder, sort trompethat og tørret æble, blot for at nævne noget. Retterne er lækre og veludførte, men udfolder samtidig en kompleksitet.

Det var næsten synd at slå den ihjel, siger Eric Yilmaz, manden bag restaurant gågaden i Odense, og placerer en hummerklo på størrelse med en solid herrehånd foran mig og fortæller, at den over fire kilo tunge sorthummer.

Nu får jeg et stykke af den til forret, syltet og serveret med tomatsalsa, grissini og kold tomatsuppe med gedefeta og basilikum til. Det møre hummerkød har struktur og både sødme og umami og spiller fint sammen med suppen og den salte feta. Kun basilikumcremen i midten formår ikke rigtig at trænge igennem smagsmæssigt.

En smuk anretning med hummeren klædt i rødt kronblad og placeret på suppeskålens låg. Den døde ikke forgæves, den sorthummer!

Masser af smag og bid i grøntsagerne
Min gæst får fisk. En saftig, stegt knurhane med perfekt sprødt skind og en kompot af porre, persille og græsgrønne hestebønner, der får god plads på tallerkenen og lader fisken være tilbehør til det grønne.

Begejstret beretter min gæst, at alle grøntsagerne har fået netop den rette tid og temperatur, så der er masser af smag og høflig modstand over hele linjen. Grøntsagerne kommer også til deres ret på min tatar, serveret med et krat af forskellige salater og krydrede blade og en blomst hist og her.

Men selv om tataren er krydret med trøffel, hyldekapers og parmesan og andet godt, virker den lidt uinspireret. For mig går det i hvert fald ikke op i en højere enhed. Slet ikke den stegte persillerod, der leder tankerne hen på varm vat.

Gaflen søger mod mere
Men så kommer der svinefilet med spidskål, tomat, løg og lidt kantareller på bordet. Svinefilet er noget af det sarteste og bliver nemt enten for rødt eller for tørt. Men jeg sætter tænderne i kødet og ser for mit indre blik det øffende svin vælte sig i mudderet og stikke trynen i – en skarp kontrast til det himmelsk velsmagende og smukke stykke kød foran mig.

Der er så meget saft og kraft i det perfekt stegte kød, at gaflen straks søger mod tallerkenen efter mere.

Kødet stammer da også fra en lokal bondegård, der ligger lige nede ad vejen, og de pragtfulde grøntsager, der helt fortjent får så god plads på tallerkenerne, kommer fra den nøje udvalgte økologiske grøntsagsavler.

Mug på den gode måde
Men det er ikke kun kærligheden til det lokale, der driver Erik. Han elsker mug! Det skimlede, grønne, hvide, pelsede, plettede, gråsorte stads, der giver mange af os kuldegysninger.

Lidt højstemt kan man sige, at han er på jagt efter en dybere sandhed i maden. Nemlig at jo mere maden er (industrielt) forarbejdet og udpint, jo værre er det.

Og deraf kærligheden til mug, som jo har sin helt egen plads i gastronomien. Uden mug, ingen sauternes, ingen ungarske pølser, der fermenteres med skimmelsvamp, for slet ikke at tale om alle de oste, vi ville gå glip af.

Duftende, stinkende, krasse og kælne oste
Måske er det derfor, at Gårgade ostebord er så enormt – 40 oste, gætter jeg på. Jeg vil anbefale enhver gæst at bestille det og se det blive båret ind med en vis ceremoni og gennemgået med stor kyndighed.

Det er opdelt i tre dele: gedeost, komælksost og fåreost.

Man peger, og tjeneren deler gavmildt ud af hvidskimmeloste fra Bourgogne, arrig blåskimmelost på komælk, den bløde komælksost l’Ami du Chambertin fra landsbyen Gevrey-Chambertin, hvor man meget gavmildt vasker osten i Erik, en halvfast, schweizisk fåremælksost, der er dækket med krydderurter og ligner en eng på en bjergskråning i det stejle osteland og smager af sommer i Type, og mange flere duftende, stinkende, krasse og kælne oste. Et orgie i mug.

Tomt vinglas oser af tobak og chokolade
Som en tyk streg under den seriøse jagt på det ægte serverer Erik kirsebærvin til osten.

FÅ MERE INSPIRATION TIL DIT MADLIV

Vi får serveret topvinen Solera, der er en dyb, kraftig dessertvin, der sagtens klarer selv de kraftigste oste, og som har det underlige ved sig, at bouqueten først for alvor folder sig ud, efter at glasset er tømt.

Det tomme glas står lidt, og pludselig oser det kraftigt af tobak og chokolade. Jo mindre industrien har haft med maden at gøre, jo bedre er det, må være Eriks filosofi, som han nu har praktiseret på Gågade.

Den filosofi ligger bag eksperimenterne med kirsebærvin og kærligheden til mug og går helt tilbage til samarbejdet med Morten Lines dengang i DR’s tv-køkken, hvor Morten snakkede, og Erik sørgede for, at der også kom mad ud af det.

Hans projekt er dengang som nu gennemført, tænksomt og sympatisk. Det er den ægte vare i restaurant.

193 kommentarer til “hvidskimmeloste fra Bourgogne”

  1. Every the moment inside a while we pick blogs that we read. Listed below are the most recent web pages that we pick out Elenore Raoul Papotto

  2. I wanted to send a brief remark to express gratitude to you for all the great ideas you are placing here. My considerable internet investigation has now been paid with wonderful details to exchange with my friends and family. I ‘d suppose that we visitors are undoubtedly lucky to be in a fabulous community with very many marvellous professionals with beneficial tips. I feel truly grateful to have seen your web page and look forward to tons of more awesome moments reading here. Thank you once again for all the details.

  3. Go to Pure CBD Selection for the best pure cbd oil. You can buy pure cbd oil that is full spectrum or broad spectrum. Make sure to sign up for there newsletter to receive a free coupon code. Analise Arnoldo Zumwalt

  4. Thank you so much for giving everyone such a special chance to read articles and blog posts from this website. It’s usually very enjoyable plus jam-packed with fun for me personally and my office friends to visit your web site the equivalent of 3 times in a week to find out the latest secrets you have. And definitely, I am just actually pleased concerning the mind-boggling thoughts you give. Certain 1 points in this post are really the most beneficial I have had.

  5. Footprints in the Sand blog indie full and interesting. Thank you for continuing to share your therapeutic experiences and Buddhist musings Miquela Tirrell Lalitta

  6. After research study a few of the article on your internet site currently, as well as I truly like your way of blog writing. I bookmarked it to my book marking web site checklist as well as will be checking back quickly. Pls take a look at my web site also as well as let me understand what you assume. TEirtza Fred Honorine

  7. Thank for your writting! I have read through some similar topics! However, your article gave me a very special impression, unlike other articles. I hope you continue to have valuable articles like this or more to share with everyone! Gabi Giustino Damarra

  8. These are genuinely fantastic ideas in on the topic of blogging. You have touched some pleasant points here. Any way keep up wrinting.| Alicia Cash Boak

  9. I must show some appreciation to the writer just for bailing me out of this type of matter. As a result of surfing throughout the world wide web and coming across advice that were not helpful, I thought my entire life was done. Existing minus the solutions to the problems you have sorted out by means of your main short post is a serious case, and the kind that might have negatively affected my entire career if I had not encountered your blog post. Your primary know-how and kindness in handling all areas was very useful. I am not sure what I would have done if I had not encountered such a stuff like this. I can at this point relish my future. Thanks a lot very much for the reliable and effective help. I won’t think twice to suggest your web page to anybody who should receive direction on this area.

  10. I just wanted to write down a brief note in order to express gratitude to you for those magnificent techniques you are writing on this website. My particularly long internet look up has at the end of the day been paid with reputable points to write about with my classmates and friends. I ‘d say that most of us website visitors are truly lucky to live in a fabulous place with very many awesome people with useful basics. I feel truly fortunate to have seen your webpages and look forward to plenty of more thrilling minutes reading here. Thanks once again for a lot of things.

  11. I’m just commenting to make you be aware of what a awesome encounter my wife’s daughter obtained studying your site. She noticed numerous issues, which include what it’s like to have an incredible helping character to let men and women really easily completely grasp specific hard to do matters. You really exceeded her desires. Thanks for distributing the essential, safe, revealing as well as easy guidance on that topic to Jane.

  12. I as well as my friends were found to be viewing the excellent tips and tricks on your website and then all of a sudden developed a horrible suspicion I never thanked the web blog owner for those secrets. Those guys had been absolutely joyful to read through them and now have really been making the most of those things. Thank you for truly being simply considerate as well as for utilizing this kind of nice subject matter millions of individuals are really wanting to learn about. Our sincere regret for not saying thanks to you earlier.

  13. I enjoy you because of each of your labor on this web page. Gloria loves setting aside time for research and it’s really simple to grasp why. Almost all know all regarding the compelling tactic you make worthwhile suggestions by means of the website and as well encourage participation from website visitors about this matter so our daughter has been understanding a whole lot. Take pleasure in the rest of the year. You are always doing a tremendous job.

  14. I needed to draft you the very little remark just to say thanks a lot yet again for those superb views you have shown above. This has been really surprisingly generous of people like you in giving publicly all most people could have sold as an e book to end up making some bucks for their own end, particularly considering that you could have tried it in case you wanted. These tactics as well acted like a fantastic way to recognize that other individuals have similar passion really like my very own to know many more on the topic of this problem. I am sure there are many more enjoyable times up front for individuals who read carefully your blog.

  15. I simply wanted to appreciate you yet again. I do not know what I might have implemented without the type of basics shared by you directly on such subject. It was actually a very scary matter in my position, but being able to see a well-written manner you treated it made me to jump for contentment. Now i am happier for the support and in addition hope that you really know what an amazing job you are providing instructing many people with the aid of your site. I am sure you haven’t got to know any of us.

  16. I not to mention my friends have already been reviewing the excellent guides from your web site then unexpectedly I got a terrible feeling I had not expressed respect to the website owner for those secrets. The young boys came for that reason stimulated to learn them and already have clearly been making the most of these things. Appreciate your simply being quite kind and then for deciding on this form of high-quality useful guides millions of individuals are really wanting to understand about. Our honest regret for not expressing appreciation to sooner.

  17. Thanks for all your hard work on this site. Debby enjoys engaging in research and it is easy to understand why. A number of us learn all about the compelling tactic you give functional strategies by means of the blog and even improve response from other individuals on this theme plus our girl is truly understanding so much. Have fun with the rest of the new year. You are conducting a very good job.

  18. I must show my love for your kind-heartedness giving support to individuals that actually need assistance with this one concern. Your very own dedication to passing the solution all-around appeared to be incredibly advantageous and has frequently allowed some individuals much like me to get to their endeavors. Your insightful report denotes a whole lot a person like me and especially to my mates. Many thanks; from everyone of us.

  19. A lot of thanks for all of your labor on this web site. Betty really likes carrying out investigations and it’s easy to see why. We hear all concerning the lively mode you make efficient secrets via the website and even increase participation from other ones on the concept and our favorite child is without a doubt understanding a lot of things. Have fun with the rest of the year. You are conducting a brilliant job.

  20. I wish to get across my respect for your generosity in support of folks that have the need for help on that subject. Your personal dedication to getting the message all over became incredibly useful and has continually empowered women much like me to arrive at their objectives. This insightful suggestions means a great deal to me and somewhat more to my office colleagues. Many thanks; from all of us.

  21. I enjoy you because of all of the effort on this web page. Kate loves carrying out investigations and it’s really easy to understand why. Most people notice all regarding the lively tactic you make simple ideas via this web blog and in addition recommend response from website visitors on the area so my princess is really studying so much. Take pleasure in the remaining portion of the new year. You are always conducting a really great job.

  22. Good day! This is my first comment here so I just
    wanted to give a quick shout out and say I really enjoy reading
    through your blog posts. Can you recommend any other blogs/websites/forums that cover the same subjects?
    Thanks a ton!

  23. I in addition to my pals have been reading through the excellent tricks on your web blog and so the sudden I had an awful feeling I had not thanked the site owner for those secrets. The people happened to be as a consequence joyful to learn them and now have clearly been making the most of those things. I appreciate you for indeed being considerably thoughtful and for having certain incredibly good things millions of individuals are really needing to discover. My very own sincere regret for not expressing gratitude to you earlier.

  24. Thanks for each of your efforts on this blog. Ellie takes pleasure in getting into investigation and it’s really easy to understand why. I learn all regarding the powerful tactic you render insightful tips on the web site and improve response from website visitors on that point plus my girl is without question studying a great deal. Take pleasure in the rest of the year. You are performing a fabulous job.

  25. I as well as my buddies were actually checking out the nice tips and hints found on your website and so then came up with a terrible suspicion I had not expressed respect to the web site owner for those techniques. These ladies were for that reason joyful to learn all of them and have in effect without a doubt been taking advantage of these things. Many thanks for getting so helpful and then for deciding upon these kinds of superb guides most people are really wanting to discover. My very own sincere apologies for not expressing gratitude to you earlier.

  26. I not to mention my guys were actually examining the excellent points on your web site and the sudden developed a horrible suspicion I had not thanked you for those techniques. Those people came as a consequence excited to read through them and have undoubtedly been loving them. Appreciation for actually being considerably accommodating and also for going for certain smart subject matter millions of individuals are really eager to understand about. My very own honest regret for not saying thanks to you earlier.

  27. I together with my pals came following the great guidelines from your web site and then all of a sudden I had a horrible suspicion I had not thanked the website owner for those tips. All of the boys appeared to be certainly thrilled to study all of them and already have really been taking advantage of these things. Thank you for actually being simply kind and then for using variety of beneficial useful guides millions of individuals are really wanting to learn about. Our sincere regret for not expressing gratitude to sooner.

  28. Thanks a lot for giving everyone an extremely spectacular chance to read critical reviews from this blog. It can be very good and as well , stuffed with amusement for me personally and my office colleagues to search the blog nearly 3 times per week to read through the newest issues you will have. And definitely, I’m also actually impressed concerning the extraordinary strategies you serve. Some 3 facts in this posting are easily the finest I have ever had.

  29. Thanks for your whole labor on this web page. My mother loves conducting internet research and it is simple to grasp why. A lot of people learn all of the compelling tactic you produce invaluable things via the web site and therefore boost participation from people on the area so our own child is really discovering so much. Have fun with the rest of the year. Your performing a great job.

  30. My husband and i were absolutely fortunate that Edward managed to round up his studies from the ideas he had out of the web page. It’s not at all simplistic to simply always be handing out steps that many most people might have been trying to sell. We really know we have the writer to appreciate for this. Most of the explanations you have made, the simple web site navigation, the relationships you can help to create – it’s got everything terrific, and it’s letting our son and our family do think this content is brilliant, and that is rather vital. Many thanks for everything!

  31. I’m also writing to let you be aware of what a great encounter my child enjoyed using your web page. She came to understand too many pieces, including how it is like to possess a great coaching nature to get many people clearly understand specified specialized matters. You undoubtedly did more than visitors’ expected results. Many thanks for imparting those powerful, trusted, revealing and even easy thoughts on your topic to Evelyn.

  32. My husband and i were very relieved Chris managed to carry out his reports by way of the ideas he had in your web pages. It is now and again perplexing just to continually be handing out points which other folks might have been selling. And now we consider we have got you to appreciate because of that. The explanations you’ve made, the simple site navigation, the friendships you will give support to engender – it is most awesome, and it’s helping our son and our family reason why the issue is pleasurable, and that’s extraordinarily serious. Thanks for everything!

  33. I’m commenting to make you understand what a helpful experience my friend’s girl enjoyed reading the blog. She realized numerous details, not to mention how it is like to have a very effective teaching spirit to have many more without hassle learn selected specialized issues. You undoubtedly exceeded my expectations. Many thanks for producing these important, dependable, edifying not to mention easy guidance on that topic to Evelyn.

  34. I have to voice my appreciation for your kindness in support of all those that really want assistance with this one field. Your very own commitment to getting the solution all-around appears to be pretty beneficial and has encouraged professionals just like me to realize their goals. Your new useful report implies much to me and even more to my office colleagues. Regards; from all of us.

  35. Pingback: dapasten
  36. Thank you for all of the effort on this site. Kim loves working on investigation and it’s easy to see why. A lot of people learn all of the dynamic way you offer advantageous strategies on the web site and cause contribution from people on that concept while my girl is now becoming educated a lot of things. Enjoy the remaining portion of the year. You are carrying out a tremendous job.

  37. In act, work out to 70% of the men with ED in the surveying said they felt that they are letting their partner down, and more than 40% said their partners feel they can no longer drill sex. Those feelings of self-consciousness and excess frequently advance men to whip their fitness from their partners. Source: viagra and cialis

  38. He pitched four or five days ago, a complete game; a complete game late in the season can catch up with you a little bit, Гў Ortiz said buy cialis usa I automatically got the shots to boost my blood counts so felt pretty good

  39. You have somke reaⅼly good posts and I belіeve I would bе a gooⅾ asset. If yoᥙ ever wɑnt too take somе oof
    tһe load off, Ι’d absolutеly love카지노사이트 tⲟ ѡrite sߋme c᧐ntent for your
    blog in exchange for a link Ьack to mіne. Please send me an email іf іnterested. Tһank ʏou!

Skriv et svar

Din e-mailadresse vil ikke blive publiceret.